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Labyrinth. “Welcome to the (Sandalwood) Machine”. The two new fragrances by the Nose-Musician Michele Pollini clearly belong to the realm of artisanal perfumery, a often unique and privileged context where the only reigning values are those of pure experimentation and passionate, purposeless artistic research. The more interesting of the two is certainly Labyrinth, an autobiographical fragrance presented as a personal ode to music by the author. It blends the most powerful sandalwood molecules, finding harmony among them dominated by Javanol, one of the most fascinating and disconcerting raw materials in the history of perfumery. However, Labyrinth is evidently more complex than that: Bergamot, Neroli, Ylang Ylang, and Osmanthus Absolute accentuate the sweetness of the lactonic woods, giving them a strong and exasperated voice capable of catapulting you into another dimension. In this sense, Pollini’s creation is as much a fragrance as it is a true machine capable of making you escape from reality, just like a Pink Floyd or Genesis album played at full volume. The sandy and dusty sounds of Welcome to the Machine are indeed the same produced by the Overdose of Vanillin and Ethyl Vanillin that instantly fill the air around you, making you forget what you were doing just a moment before... So, if in perfumery we are often used to referring to talent mainly in a technical sense, we must at least recognize Pollini’s ability to absorb the wearer of Labyrinth into a world all his own, with its own sounds and dense atmosphere, charged with a real yet mature, subdued emotion. The performance is astonishing, and the fragrance is a true crowd disperser, capable of overpowering any other scent within a two-meter radius. In short, if you are looking for an artistic, dense, pleasant fragrance with overwhelming performance, Labyrinth is the one for you.
MANFREDIGAETANO14
Creativity and artistic passion, when possessed as a divine gift, know neither limits nor boundaries, they are always capable of creating emotions and magic. The Musician Michele Pollini offers a poetic gift to Italian artistic perfumery, translating his visceral musical passion into soft and bold fragrances. Labyrinth, like the legendary and mythical architectural construction created by Daedalus and linked to the myth of Minos: Michele Pollini’s imaginative olfactory labyrinth is a fascinating and enigmatic celebration where cedar wood notes blend with the dominant notes of sandalwood and patchouli and the mystical and mysterious balsamic notes of regal myrrh, immersed in a kaleidoscopic celebration of exotic floral notes of Ylang Ylang and refined vanilla. A precious blend that encapsulates years of study, research of harmony, and balance. In the dry down, the olfactory evolution is surprising, becoming enveloping and reassuring like a softly powdered caress. Undoubtedly a victorious fragrance for strong personalities who love to make their mark, absolutely worthy of being experienced and loved.
DARIAFRANCESCA74
"A heart that's full up like a landfill
a job that slowly kills you
bruises that won't heal"
No Surprises is a melancholic ballad by Radiohead that speaks of resignation to living one's life, but it also represents a desire to regain vitality, with its slow yet comforting rhythm.
In Labyrinth, I found contrasting notes that give the fragrance a melancholic connotation, with smoky notes from birch wood, but which find a warm ray of light thanks to the floral hints of osmanthus and the roundness of ylang ylang, making it a truly unique and evocative composition at times.
Truly a fragrance with great personality, different, one that must be experienced.
"Melancholy" painted by Hayez.
MYRTILLAJUS
Marla. “Somehow Spicy and Cozy Rose Fragrance”. The second perfume by Michele Pollini is inspired by Marla, the restless and romantic bohemian character from Fight Club, masterfully portrayed by the incomparable English actress Helena Bonham Carter in the film of the same name. There are many things that could be said about this fragrance, starting with the enigmatic architecture of the rose accord devised by Michele Pollini. Perhaps the simplest observation is that it takes elements typical of amber fragrances from the '90s: vibrant Bergamot at the opening, warm and dreamy spicy notes, soft and vanilla-like musks. While my relationship with Labyrinth is relatively 'new', with Marla I experience flashbacks: facets already perceived somewhere in a distant past, fleetingly known people, crowded venues packed with people gathered around the bar, and dance floors where no one yet knew what reggaeton was (alas!)… Pollini's rose is certainly evocative, but at the same time it seems not to align with the scripts of the most well-known French perfumes of the genre. I sense very little Citronellol, very little Geraniol, and finally, Phenylethyl Alcohol contributes to intensifying the fruity whirls of other raw materials rather than taking on the usual naturalistic connotation. In this sense, “white rose” gives a better idea, or at least better than the banal term “rose”. In the heart and base notes, the musks and resins push from the base of the fragrance, making it warm, amber, and vanilla-like. And this is the point of the evaporative curve that I appreciate the most: personally, I sense something extremely soft and nostalgic in Marla. I repeat: it must be something I've already known in my past, but I really can't pinpoint it precisely… The performance is excellent as in the case of Labyrinth, and in fact, Marla seems to have a better intensity and more significant volatility. So, prepare for Armageddon. With Pollini, it’s a bit like with Alessandro Gualtieri: once you've worn one of his perfumes, you can no longer hide unless there's a fallout shelter nearby. The idea is great, and if Labyrinth reminded me of Pink Floyd, Marla has something of that song…what's it called…Where is My Mind? by the Pixies? I don't know. There's a lot of that grunge electric guitar in the texture of the fragrance.
MANFREDIGAETANO14
Michele Pollini creates the feminine fragrance Marla, freely inspired by the mysterious femme fatale Marla Singer, the literary and cinematic heroine of the famous novel Fight Club, written by Chuck Palahniuk. This cult classic from the late '90s was later brought to great cinematic success by director David Fincher. The tormented plot vividly and violently highlights the psychological turmoil of the protagonist, who suffers from dissociative identity disorder, and his subversive discontent with the American consumerist and patriarchal society. The fragrance aims to embody the ambiguous and mysterious personality hidden behind the enigmatic charm of the protagonist. Michele Pollini chooses the purity and delicacy of the white rose, a symbol of femininity that seeks to assert itself in a nihilistic and male-centric world. This commanding rose is immersed in the lively and warm spicy notes of cloves, which break through the rarefied purity of the queen of the floral world, almost defining its strong and decisive character. The fragrance appears feminine, hypnotic, and seductive, with secret and intriguing myrrh emerging without overpowering, giving way to the sensuality of amber and the refined sweetness of vanilla, enveloped in reassuring musky notes.
The temporal evolution becomes enveloping and creamy, like a bar of soap—a reminiscence of the novel's restless plot. Undoubtedly, it is a fragrance that is not frilly, but rather for incisive and determined characters.
DARIAFRANCESCA74
Marla.
Marla Singer is the tormented protagonist of the film Fight Club. A difficult life, marked by luck always seemingly out of reach, from which there appears to be no redemption. She, always with smudged makeup, struggling with herself, yet possessing an incredible allure. Marla, the only female character in this cinematic masterpiece, must fight to assert herself, to show her worth, and despite being surrounded by extremely negative situations, she represents the most positive aspect of the whole story. By saying no to a toxic relationship, she affirms her own value.
In this fragrance, Marla is celebrated with what is the queen of perfumery: the rose. Here, it appears in all its beauty, initially juicy, almost fruity, then delicate and at times powdery. A flower of extreme yet delicate beauty, in this case, it appears as it sheds its velvety petals, white, elegant, and enveloping. As a lover of this note, I truly enjoyed it and was pleasantly surprised by its ability to capture the fragility of this flower, which possesses tremendous communicative strength. I really liked it and it has made it onto my wishlist.
The performance is excellent, truly of high quality. "Flowers and Still Life" painted by Giovanni Boldini.
MYRTILLAJUS